When you think of a diamond, you surely think of the traditional round brilliant cut. It's like Beyoncé for diamonds, always stealing the show. But the Asscher Cut Diamonds are there in the background, like a fascinating old Hollywood celebrity with an aura of refinement. It's classic, geometric, and exquisite, yet it also seems like it will never go out of style. This cut isn't for someone who wants to fit in; it's for someone who wants others to give a second take when they see the ring on your finger.
This article will tell you all you need to know about Asscher cut diamonds, including where they come from, what makes them exceptional, how to choose the right one, and if they may be the cut of your dreams. Get ready to embark on a glittering trip that is half history lecture, part fashion magazine, and part practical purchasing advice.
History of the Asscher Cut Diamond

Diamonds may last forever, but trends don't. In 1902, a smart Dutch jeweler called Joseph Asscher (yep, the cut is named after him) showed the world this square, step cut beauty. Joseph wasn't just any jeweler; he started the well known Royal Asscher Diamond Company, which is still a respected brand in the diamond business today.
In the 1920s and 1930s, the Art Deco period, the Asscher cut became quite fashionable. The roaring twenties were all about crisp lines, strong shapes, and glamor wherever you looked. The Asscher was a fantastic match for that style. It had a "hall of mirrors" aspect that made people stop and look at it at every cocktail gathering. Then, like other vintage fads, it went out of style for a time, but it came back strong in the early 2000s owing to several famous people and the overall rise in popularity of vintage-inspired jewelry.
People who adore the mix of old fashioned charm and contemporary elegance in Asscher cut diamonds love them today. The round cut is like popular pop music, whereas the Asscher is like indie rock music. It may not be everyone's first pick, but its admirers are highly loyal.
What Makes the Asscher Cut Unique?
The Asscher cut diamond is noted for its unique shape and art deco style. The Asscher cut, on the other hand, focuses on clarity and depth instead of increasing brilliance. The diamond's step cut form has parallel facets that seem like steps, which attract the eye to the center of the diamond.
Joseph Asscher first made this cut in 1902. It became quite popular in the 1920s and 1930s, a time when strong, geometric patterns were all the rage. The Asscher Cut Diamonds form with cropped corners gives it a delicate octagonal contour. This makes it a sophisticated option for those who like architectural elegance in their jewelry.
Another thing that makes the Asscher cut stand out is its amazing optical effect, which is commonly called the "hall of mirrors." This illusion happens as light bounces off the diamond's parallel facets, giving it a classy depth that seems both old and new. The Asscher cut is a great option for those who want subtle brilliance over dazzling dazzle.
The Asscher cut is different from other decorative forms since it is both distinctive and useful. It looks well in solitaire settings, vintage inspired designs, and even modern ring styles. This makes it a great choice for engagement rings and jewelry that you want to pass down to your children.
Here’s what sets it apart:

- Shape: A square with deeply trimmed corners, giving it almost an octagonal outline.
- Facets: Typically 58 facets (although some modified versions may have more), arranged in a way that creates a mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect.
- Clarity over sparkle: Unlike brilliant cuts that hide imperfections under glittery fire, Asscher Cut Diamonds are brutally honest. If your diamond has inclusions, an Asscher will show them off like it’s presenting evidence in court. That’s why you need higher clarity when buying this cut.
- Depth: Asscher Cut Diamonds are usually cut deeper, which means they can appear smaller face up compared to other cuts of the same carat weight. But what they lose in size illusion, they make up for in hypnotic depth.
In other words, while most cuts are designed to scream “Look at me sparkle!”, the Asscher whispers, “Look at me, I’m timeless.” And honestly, sometimes whispers are louder than shouts.
Asscher Cut Diamond Facts
- Hall of Mirrors Look: Creates a deep, endless reflection effect unlike any other cut.
- Vintage Glamour: Strongly tied to the Art Deco era, perfect for antique-inspired styles.
- Octagonal Shape: Square with cropped corners, giving a bold yet refined outline.
- Clarity Spotlight: Step cuts reveal the diamond’s purity, making clean stones stand out.
- Royal Upgrade: The modern Royal Asscher has 74 facets for extra brilliance.
Pros and Cons of Asscher Cut Diamonds
Every diamond cut has its cheerleaders and critics, and the Asscher is no exception. Let’s break it down:
Pros
- Elegant, vintage appeal: If you love antique inspired rings, this is your soulmate cut.
- Unique “hall of mirrors” effect: Gives a depth and sophistication that round brilliants just can’t replicate.
- Timeless style: It transitions beautifully between eras vintage yet contemporary.
- Durable shape: With trimmed corners, it’s less prone to chipping than sharp edged cuts like princess diamonds.
Cons
- Shows imperfections easily: You’ll need a higher clarity grade (VS2 or above) to keep it looking flawless.
- Less sparkle than brilliant cuts: It’s more subtle, so if you want “blinding sparkle,” this may not be your match.
- Appears smaller than round cuts of the same carat: A 1 carat Asscher will look smaller face up compared to a 1 carat round.
- Pricey for high quality: Since you need higher clarity and color to make it shine, costs can creep up.
How to Choose the Perfect Asscher Cut Diamond

The "Four Cs" cut, clarity, color, and carat weight are vital to think about while choosing an Asscher cut diamond. This is because step cut diamonds show flaws more quickly than brilliant cuts. Keep this in mind:
First, make sure everything is clear. The big open facets of an Asscher Cut Diamonds like windows, which makes inclusions easier to see. Experts say that you should choose a diamond with at least a VS2 clarity grade. Higher clarity grades like VVS1 or IF will give you even better results.
Second, think about the hue. Brilliant cuts may hide traces of color, but the Asscher Cut Diamonds openness does not. If you want your diamond to seem clear and dazzling, it should be in the G-H range or above. This keeps the diamond's beautiful white color while also making it a good deal.
Third, pay special attention to how the cut looks. The GIA does not rate Asscher cuts for cut quality as it does for round diamonds, thus dimensions are very important. To have a good combination of brightness and depth, the depth should be between 60 and 68% and the table size should be between 60 and 65%. Symmetry is also very important. A well cut Asscher diamond will seem precisely square, with facets that are perfectly aligned.
Finally, think about the weight and size of the carat. Asscher cut diamonds may seem smaller than round diamonds of the same carat weight because they are heavier in their depth than in their surface area. If you want to make the stone seem bigger, you could choose to pick a carat size that is a little bigger or use a halo setting.
-
Prioritize Clarity
Because Asschers are so open and transparent, inclusions are the party crashers you just can’t hide. Aim for VS2 clarity or better, and if your budget allows, go for VVS.
-
Don’t Skimp on Color
The Asscher’s depth can make even the slightest color tint more noticeable. Stick with H color or above for that crisp, clean look.
-
Carat Weight Matters
Since Asschers look smaller face up, many buyers choose to go a little larger in carat weight to get the finger coverage they want.
-
Pay Attention to the Cut
Asschers don’t have standardized cut grades from GIA (unlike rounds), so you’ll need to look at depth, table, and symmetry. Ideally:
- Depth: 60-68%
- Table: 60-68%
- Symmetry: Excellent or Very Good
-
Set It Right
The right setting can make or break an Asscher. A halo setting can add extra sparkle and make the stone appear larger. A solitaire keeps it classic and chic. And if you’re feeling bold, try a vintage inspired filigree design to really embrace its Art Deco roots.
Popular Settings and Styles for Asscher Cut Diamonds
The Asscher cut diamond is a form that goes well with many different ring settings, so it appeals to a lot of different preferences. Every setting brings out a distinct part of this unique cut.
The solitaire setting is one of the most popular options. A simple, elegant design that focuses all attention to the diamond itself is the finest way to show off the clear lines of the Asscher cut. A solitaire Asscher ring looks classy no matter what metal it's made of, whether it's platinum, white gold, or yellow gold. It's also great for those who like simple things.
Asscher Cut Diamonds halo setting is another beautiful choice. Adding smaller pave diamonds around the Asscher diamond makes it seem bigger and adds sparkle. This setting is great for those who desire more sparkle but yet want to keep the classic look of the Asscher cut.
Asscher diamonds look great in ornate settings with geometric patterns, milgrain accents, and side stones. They are perfect for those who like art deco or antique style jewelry. People also really like three stone designs with baguette or trapezoid side stones since they go well with the step cut facets and make the diamond seem more symmetrical. These settings show showcase the cut's history and give it a beautiful, one of a kind appearance.
Discover the Beauty of Asscher Diamonds
Showcase striking brilliance and unique charm in your next engagement ring with an Asscher cut.
Explore Asscher DiamondsConclusion
Asscher cut diamonds are the right mix of old fashioned style and current style. They are a more elegant choice than more popular diamond cuts because they have a hall of mirrors look, step cut facets, and a unique square style. Asscher cut diamonds are a great option for anybody who wants something unique, whether they like their history, their geometric symmetry, or their understated brightness. You can make sure your Asscher cut diamond stays a beautiful treasure for years to come by focusing on its clarity, color, and proportion and choosing a setting that makes it seem even better.
Frequently Asked Questions About Asscher Cut Diamonds
Q: Is the Asscher cut more expensive than other diamond cuts?
Not necessarily by cut alone, but since it requires higher clarity and color grades to look its best, it can end up costing more than some other cuts.
Q: Does the Asscher cut sparkle as much as a round diamond?
Nope. The Asscher is more about brilliance and depth than all out sparkle. If you want fireworks, go round. If you want elegance, stick with Asscher.
Q: What setting works best for Asscher cut diamonds?
Halo settings are popular for adding size and sparkle, while solitaires highlight the cut’s clean lines. Vintage inspired settings also pair beautifully with its Art Deco vibe.
Q: What is an Asscher cut diamond?
An Asscher cut diamond is a square-shaped step cut with cropped corners and parallel facets, creating a "hall of mirrors" effect. It was first introduced in 1902 by Joseph Asscher.
Q: How is an Asscher cut diamond different from an emerald cut?
Both are step cuts, but emerald cuts are rectangular while Asscher cuts are square with cropped corners. The Asscher cut also has more symmetry and a deeper "hall of mirrors" effect.
Q: What clarity grade is best for Asscher cut diamonds?
Since step cuts reveal imperfections easily, it’s recommended to choose at least VS2 clarity, though higher grades such as VVS1 or IF are ideal for maximum brilliance.
Q: What color grade should I choose for an Asscher cut diamond?
Because the cut shows color more than brilliant cuts, diamonds in the G-H color range or higher are typically preferred for a bright, white appearance.
Q: Are Asscher cut diamonds more expensive?
They are generally priced similarly to other fancy cuts but may cost less than round brilliant diamonds. However, finding a well-cut Asscher diamond can sometimes be more challenging, which may influence price.
Q: How can I make an Asscher cut diamond look bigger?
Choosing a halo setting, a thinner band, or a slightly larger carat weight can help the diamond appear bigger on the finger.
